I don’t consider myself a cruise person. A giant ship with tons of people and scheduled “supervised” port stops – that’s just not my idea of fun. HOWEVER. The idea of cruising down the Nile River instead of a mega-Caribbean cruise….now THAT sounds waaaaay more exotic. This was the type of cruise I could definitely get on board with! So, when my friend Arlene with Destinations & Adventures asked if I’d like to join her for an Egyptian trip that included a luxury Nile dahabiya cruise… you bet I jumped at the opportunity!
Having never been to Egypt before I had assumed I’d be most affected by the obvious world-famous sites. And don’t get me wrong. When I had my first glimpse of the sphinx, or gazed up at the great pyramids, or tunneled deep underground in the Valley of Kings – these were all unforgettable experiences. But being immersed in the peaceful rhythm of the Nile on the dahabiya – this may have been the highlight of my Egypt trip.
What is a dahabiya anyway?
I think I had expected something akin to a Viking River cruise. But I soon learned that a dahabiya was a uniquely different experience.
A dahabiya is essentially a wooden barge-like sailboat with two large sails. The lower level contains a few cabins and there’s a large partially covered upper deck. Boats like this have sailed the Nile for thousands of years. In the 1800s and 1900s, wealthy travelers and archaeologists used dahabiyas for their Nile journeys like the ancient Egyptians did. And now the tradition has been revived to offer modern-day adventurers an alternative experience to the larger Nile cruise ships.
The boat doesn’t have an engine, and instead relies on the wind in its two large sails to carry it up and down the Nile. Occasionally the wind is uncooperative, and in those instances a tug boat is nearby to give it a little tow for a bit. But is usually far enough away to keep the serenity of the sailboat journey intact.
Where did the dahabiya go?
We boarded the Dahabiya Loulia in Esna for a 4-night journey upriver to Aswan. I was a little skeptical about sailing UP river, but apparently a strong wind overcomes a strong current. Along the journey we were scheduled to stop at various temples and villages including Edfu and Kom Ombo. Some stops though, were far from the well-trodden tourist path since the smaller dahabiyas could dock places the large ships couldn’t. As a result, we strolled rural riverside villages, visited a local camel market, walked thru fields, and scrambled over rocks in the ancient quarries of Gebel Silsileh (my favorite stop.)
I felt like I was experiencing a secret Egypt, one only available to the locals and a lucky few shown the way. We spent most of our days either exploring or lazily drifting down the Nile at the speed of the wind. Floating past green fields dotted with water buffalo, local fishermen bringing in their daily catch, and the occasional group of school kids waving excitedly from the shore. When we did visit the big tourist sites, it was often before or after the large cruise ships had come through – leaving the temples nearly to ourselves and our Egyptologist, who traveled the entire journey with us.
We also had the opportunity to swim in the Nile! This is something the bigger Nile cruise ships aren’t able to offer. Our dahabiya captain knew of places where it was safe and clean to swim in the river. So one day we docked at a beautiful sandy beach occupied only by a few donkeys. The water was cold but clear, and I convinced myself to take the plunge. I mean who can say they’ve swam in the Nile?! My cheeks were literally sore from smiling so much that afternoon. Bucket list moment!
What was the dahabiya boat like?
The first moment we stepped on board the wooden dahabiya, we were greeted with a fresh juice. A ritual that was pleasantly repeated every time we returned to the boat from our many excursions. We were also encouraged to abandon our shoes upon getting onboard. A practice that put this barefoot-loving Florida girl right at ease.
Our dahabiya could accommodate up to 12 guests in six cabins, two of which were suites with their own terrace. We were lucky to stay in one of those! With so few guests and just enough room for a small kitchen and crew – it made for a very intimate setting. The dahabiya’s barge-like hull is like that of a houseboat. So, the rooms didn’t feel like you were on a ship, more like a cozy hotel room. Each cabin had air conditioning and an ensuite bathroom with a tub/ shower and flush toilets.
The upper deck was THE hangout space. It’s where we ate all our meals, watched the crew hoist the massive sails, took frequent blissful naps and socialized with our fellow passengers. It was a beautiful space. There was plentiful nooks and crannies outfitted with beautiful wooden furniture, loungers and even a hammock.
Electricity was provided via a generator which was on during the day but switched off later at night to maintain tranquility. I had thought this would be a problem, but we just got used to the routine of charging our electronics during the day. The lack of mechanical noise meant sleeping at night was the absolute best. The boat would moor along river islands in rural areas. And we drifted off to sleep to the sounds of the river, nature, and occasionally the call to prayer drifting out over the Nile.
How was the food?
Well, all I can say is that tiny sailboat kitchen produced some of the best damn food I ate in Egypt. All local. All fresh. And every day I saw them loading fresh bread aboard from the tug. Which meant we got to taste the subtle differences in bread from different villages along the route.
Dining was communal on the top deck, like one big family. We were very fortunate to have a friendly group of people from around the world to dine with.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea were provided every day. Nearly every meal was different, and we hardly ate the same thing twice over the entire journey. Lots of fresh vegetables, fruit and meats.
The daily fruit juices were a special treat. Lemon and mint, hibiscus, strawberry, melon, banana – always a delicious surprise.
The service from our staff was unmatched. They were very accommodating if you had any dietary restrictions or requests. Of my travel companions, one was vegetarian, the other was avoiding red meat, and they easily accommodated both. And our crew member Abraham (who served as our waiter) was extremely patient and even took time to learn what each of us liked at different times of the day. He learned that I liked a Turkish coffee after lunch (delicious BTW!) and began anticipating bringing me one. It was divine. Bottom line: we ate well and often.
What was the best part?
The rhythm of dahabiya journey was simply divine. It felt like you were part of the scenery. Waking and retiring with the sun and moving at the pace of the wind. Each day brought a unique adventure, followed by a fresh feast and an afternoon of peaceful relaxation. I felt like I got to experience the real Egypt, and witness life on the Nile – far away from hordes of tourists. It was the most relaxed I’ve felt in years and the whole experience was a treat for the senses, the belly, the eyes and the soul. Surely the best way to cruise the Nile!
Wanna go?
Craving your own epic dahabiya journey? Together with my partners at Destinations & Adventures we can craft you a personalized Egyptian adventure. Get in touch here. Or visit my Travel Planning page.
